Notes from the Wall

HJ and I did some fun climbing in the Cathedral Spires back in August, including the easy classic, Spire Four. The route is straightforward, and the approach is quicker up the back side. The climber’s trail splits off of the Cathedral Spires trail from Needles Highway, and goes up around the southeast side of the spires. Finding the proper gully is usually the most difficult part. We scramble up to the start, and hear voices of other climbers. “Probably George and friends,” sez H. We knew they were doing one of the Conn circuits — East Gruesome, Spire Four, something like that. We rope up, and HJ leads up the first gully. It’s a dark, wide, easy pitch, about 100′ up under a roof that looks impassible. Except for an infamous hole known as the Wormhole. There is an alternate route, around to the left and over the lip. Keep in mind that HJ has injured himself by overextending his arm training in the gym, and can’t pull at all with the left appendage. That leaves him at a disadvantage, and he really has no choice but to lead on up through the wormhole. Which he does with aplomb. “Off belay” he sends down cheerily.

I start up the gully, climbing easily. After all, it’s barely 5.0, and even I can climb this, even at 215 pounds and a 38″ waist. I scrabble up to the wormhole, and peer through it dubiously. How the hell do you squeeze through that? I ask myself. The alternative is a lefthand jump across to a fin with good holds, but it is a bit of a jump. The wormhole is definitely easier, if you’re a skinny little dwarf. It’s obvious that HJ would have had to pull himself up and around with the useless left arm on the alt route, so his choice makes perfect sense. For him.

For me, however, this is a struggle. I stand on the flat platform below the wormhole and push my pack up to HJ. Then my arms go and I manage to wiggle my shoulders through, too. For a minute it looks like I might fit. Then I realize that I have three ‘biners, a cleaning tool and a chalk bag strung out on my harness loops. I shove mightily, but I can’t get my encumbered hips through the hole. The voices we heard earlier have become attached to faces now — George Hurley and his friends Bob, Lisa & another friend, are waiting for us to clear the rap station. Lisa takes pictures of me. How embarassing. I try to look noble. George is laughing. HJ is laughing. I am desperately hoping my bony ass is not stuck permanently in this hole. I imagine how cold it must get at night in late August in the Cathedral Spires. Not too cold, but lonely. I wiggle around some more. No go.

I consider removing the impediments. The thought of being permanently stuck in the wormhole does not make me feel better about this alternative, however, so I opt for the clever retreat. HJ rigs another loop in the rope, and tosses it around the side. I climb back down to a firm stance and retie into the rope and scramble up around the other side. Cheers greet me. Better than catcalls, I guess. I actually prefer the challenge of going around — it’s a few holds of maybe 5.7, and for three or four minutes I was actually climbing.We take some photos, and then HJ and I went on to the top, while George and friends rapped off.The rest of the climb is easy and loads of fun. We whomp up one of the two main towers on Spire Four, and at the top of the second pitch, there is a little gap to jump over at the rap bolts. HJ offers to let me lead, but I’ve already lost enough skin to the wormhole. He hops over and up and I follow. The weather is perfect and so is the view. We pause, we sign the register (fairly new PVC tube) and rap back off in time for dinner. Good times.

A small addition: here’s a pic of James on top of Spire IV

George Hurley and friends at the Spire IV belay, right above the wormhole. Clockwise from the lower left are Lisa, George, Bob and Peggy.

The view from the top of Spire IV, with Spire III and Spire II on the left and in the middle.

Tags: cathedral spires, Climb, HJ, south dakota, Spire Four, Wormhole